For the longest time, sweetcorn was unfairly maligned by the fancy food industry. I guess they just couldn’t figure out how to get Those Darn Cobs onto a plate in any form that didn’t result in greased-up finger-licking, a rabbit-like protrusion of the teeth and - later - a lot of awkward grimacing and picking to remove every straggly strand wedged between the incisors. And you can say what you will about the flavour, but it stained the tablecloths and the whole aesthetic didn’t exactly pair well with a glass of Chateau Latour Pauillac (I have no idea what that is I just googled ‘expensive wines’).

Anyhoo thanks - most likely - to Yotam Ottolenghi (who seems to bring about some kind of new food revolution every year), the humble corn cob has had a renovation and is now swanked up to the max. And all’s ya gotta do is cut it into quarters.

For some reason the structural integrity of the corn cob is such that simply cutting it down the middle and in half again makes it curl up all prettily on the grill. Chop it, char it, butter it, salt it and artfully curl it across your plate like a buttery-yellow octopus tentacle. Everyone will think you are especially clever and, provided you didn’t slice off your fingers while quartering the corn, I think you should take the compliment.

SO, if you want to make the most of these last arrogantly-clear-skied autumn afternoons, I say: grab some corn cobs, slice them into fours and celebrate our newly rediscovered ability to party in groups of ten people or less with a semi-fancypants barbecue!*

*Note: Neither friends nor a barbecue are strictly necessary. Just plenty of butter and moderately-responsible knife skills.

Corn Ribs w/ Grilled Haloumi

Serves 3-4

Ingredients

1 onion, halved and thinly sliced

1 Tbsp grape seed oil

2 tsp balsamic vinegar

1 cup of cherry tomatoes

1 capsicum, cut in chunky 1 inch strips

1 tsp grapeseed oil

1/4 tsp smoky paprika

225g Haloumi cut into thin strips

For the corn ribs

2 corn cobs

2 Tbsp grape seed oil

1 Tbsp butter

Chilli flakes, salt and pepper to taste

Method

Caramelise your onion by frying on low heat, with 1 Tbsp grape seed oil (olive oil is also fine), 2 tsp balsamic vinegar and a pinch of salt for about 20 minutes, or until the onion has softened and turned a caramel brown shade. Set aside in a warm oven (about 140˚C) in a deep dish covered with aluminium foil.

In the same pan, fry the cherry tomatoes until blistered and popping. Add these to the onions and return to the oven to keep warm.

Toss the chopped capsicum with 1 tsp oil, the smoky paprika and a generous pinch of salt. Toss until the capsicum is evenly coated with the oil and paprika, then place under the grill, skin side up, until slightly charred (about 10 minutes).

While the capsicum grills, prepare the corn ribs. Cut the pointy top and bottom ends off each corn cob, then (very carefully) cut each cob in half lengthwise. This takes a bit of effort as the centres of the cobs can be quite hard. Stand the cob up on one of the flat cut ends, and cut downwards, splitting it in half. A sharp knife, fingers well out of the way on top of the knife, and gently rocking the knife as you cut should help. Cut the halved cobs in half again lengthways, so each cob is in four quarters. Toss the quartered cobs with the remaining 2 Tbsp grape seed oil and rub with the butter. Sprinkle with chilli, a few generous pinches of salt, and pepper.

In a large skillet on very high heat (or a barbecue, if you have one) grill the corn cobs until golden on all sides, and grill the strips of haloumi until hot and golden on both sides too.

Serve with the onions and tomato as the bottom layer, topped with the grilled capsicum, corn ribs and haloumi. Add chilli flakes, salt and pepper to taste.

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